CLIMBING IN THE WEST KOOTENAYS

By: June Ray

Where to Climb in the West Kootenay ? Or why to Climb in the West Kootenay?

June Ray- Guide, coach, mother and adventure entrepreneur

Situated in between the Selkirk & Purcell Mountain Range offers us up a vast palate of very respectable rock climbing. The kootenays has traditionally centered on mountaineering due to the fact that we are very close to some of the most incredible world-class mountain parks, Valhalla Park & Bugaboo Glacier Provincial Park. However since the early 70’s many local crags have been developed. Now we have the choice between alpine climbing, cragging or bouldering. Climbing here is usually limited to the months of March through to November due to the weather where we are generally characterized as having moist cool winters and warm dry summers. There are way too many areas to list them all but here are a few choice crags to go & explore.

Hall Siding- (Ymir) Located right along side Hwy #6, just 20km south of Nelson towards Salmo makes this crag a convenient quick fix. This rock has many great features is considered to be a classic modern sport climbing area that is well protected. Early morning climbing in the spring is best to capture the warmth of the suns rays and late afternoon in the summer to find the shade.

Kootenay Crag- (Nelson) This requires a pleasant walk or bike ride along the old railroad trail going towards troop, look up to your right and you will see the 200ft granite crag, encased in tall fir trees and offers up a wonderful view of Kootenay lake. This area is for the more experienced and strong climber(s) as it has challenging steep routes. This is also another sport climbing area that does have some climbs in need of placing gear. Great in the summer because it’s shaded but also is fun swimming in the lake after a hard day of cranking!

Woodbury Bluffs- (Kaslo) It’s a little more of an adventure getting into this fun sport climbing crag, be warned, you may be the only one there- Yeah. This is not a high use area but is well worth the effort. There are lots of moderate sport climbs that are well bolted and it’s another hot spot for views.

Kinnaird Bluffs- (Castlegar) This is a series of Gneiss bluffs with single & some two-pitch climbs that offer face, crack and slab climbing. There are some wide cracks and roof features just to keep it interesting. This is a great spring or fall location as it becomes way too hot in the summer, also beware this area has very sensitive access issues because it sits right alongside private homes. 

Slocan Bluffs- (Slocan) This has become one of the most popular climbing areas in the Kootenay’s for sure! Due to its large number of moderate climbs on well protected granite. This is an area with easy logistics for large groups, children and families. Set alongside Slocan Lake it truly is beautiful. At the base of the cliffs is a paved pathway (old hwy) and is great for kids to ride there bikes or play around on, but it is very noisy during the week due to the mill being open. Weekends are preferable. The temperatures here in the summer can be moderate due to the fact that it is right along side the lake. There is also bouldering here offering nice grassy landings and has a 75ft traverse.

Cougar Creek- (Near Slocan)  This area has granite cliffs and slabs up to 150m high that offers truly spectacular crack climbing- in fact, many people think it compares to squamish ! There is great potential for new routes here so bring your drill! Cougar Creek cliffs are set high above the valley floor offering breathtaking views down the valley.

The best way to find this place is to look on Dan Macs website, www.cavecreeksystems.com/cougarcreek.

So now you have the scoop on some of the areas prime spots, for more detailed information please feel free to contact the staff at Gravity Climbing center in Nelson for local up to date information, prior to heading out. If you don’t know how to climb but would love to try-no problem. Gravity Adventures can get you going, they offer full intro to climbing beginner courses. The indoor climbing wall is a great place to start and the staff there will quickly get you on your way to climbing outdoors. Full courses and guiding available. Please check out their website www.gravityadventures.net or www.gravityadventures.ca  or call (250) 354-9603 for complete details.

For Mountaineering courses check here: Mountaineering Course Nelson , B.C.   For Mountaineering courses International- check here.

June Ray

Mother, Adventurer, Co-owner of Gravity Unlimited Adventures Ltd, Nelson, B.C. June has been climbing passionately on & off for the past 22 years. Originally from Australia, she now resides in Nelson. June has climbed many 15,000 to 20,000ft peaks around the world and recently guided for Peak Freak Expeditions in the Himalayas. Certified with the ACMG & Coaching Association of Canada, June coaches the women’s programs for all levels.

Her travels around the world in search of adventure and climbing are a direct reflection of her love of people, culture and photography.

HIMALAYAN HIGH ALTITUDE SPECIALISTS since 1983