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CLIMBING GEAR DISCUSSION
[Surviving
Everest] [Photo gallery]
[Everest Training]
[Suggested Brand List]
On this page you will find recommendations for all of your equipment needs for climbing
Mount Everest and other mountains worldwide. The items I have
selected are based on light weight and warmth, essential for climbing at
altitude. This is a guideline only, please study carefully to assess your
personal needs.
Be very careful not to over pack. Below is a photo of all
your needs to climb mountains such as Ama Dablam and Mount Pumori. For Everest
add some altitude boots, electric foot warmers, a down suit and some oxygen and you are set.
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Kathmandu is fast becoming a
hub for high altitude clothing manufactures and equipment distributors in
Thamel, the tourist district.. Here are a couple of friends we work with. Their equipment
has been used on dozens of successful Everest summits.
EVEREST
HARDWEAR- Custom Down Suit and Jackets: .
Manufactures of down clothing, jackets, pants,
suits and sleeping bags good for Everest and other high altitude
peaks. Contact: Ang Sonam Sherpa at:
angsonam25@yahoo.com
Phone: Tel: +977 1 4230399, Cell: +977 98510-45706- Custom made suits
available to Peak Freak participants. Be sure to mention you are with Peak
Freaks for our special offer.
The suit has been tried
tested and true on many occasions by our expeditions members, including the
Lions Club Sherpa team in 2007 and the Women's Nepalese National Team. Our best survival suit
story was in 2008 on Everest when our client Sultan Al Ismaili, the first
climber from Oman to attempt Everest spent the night high on Everest with
added ventilation that was created in the butt area. This was caused by
Tim dragging him down the mountain by his boots when Sultan gave up and
wanted to die. A little leakage was created sending feathers over the
Kangshung face, luckily both Sultan and the suit survived that epic night
in the death zone.
Our promotion of these suits
"which are not knock off's" but rather originals, is part of our
"green theme" policies in buying local. The suit was designed from a
template of of one of Tim's down suits a few years ago and improved from
there.
Photo: Ang Sonam Sherpa-
shop owner and
Lions Club Everest Summiteer May 21, 2007. Sherpa Photos above: On Everest
in the Everest Hardwear Suits- Da Jemba Sherpa, Lhakpa Gelgan Sherpa, Kami
Sherpa, Ang Sonam Sherpa (Owner)
EVEREST
BOOTS: Distributor of the Everest Boot now in
Kathmandu with a large
inventory and is the NEW Kathmandu Mountain Hard Wear store.:
Contact: Tendi
Sherpa mtnoutdoors@wlink.com.np
Phone: Tel: 977 1 441 800 Fax: 977 1 443
7679 Tell Tendi you are climbing with Peak Freaks. Sizes 8 to 13.
You can also buy Kathmandu all
original Mountain Hardwear as you would see in the catalogue or online.
Prices are much the same as at home because this is the official Kathmandu
dealer. No knock offs here! Large selection up-to-date stock.
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KATHMANDU
HAS IT ALL !!! There
are just a couple of exceptions.
Photos of our
gear outlet in Kathmandu. New and used and rentals too!
BOOTS
MILLET EVEREST
BOOT
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Millet's
formerly One Sport Everest Boots, are now available in Kathmandu for a good
price. A couple years ago the Kathmandu assortment was not so good due to
limited sizes available. Today they are well stocked. Many climbers will go
first on our Everest Training Climb
on Mt. Pumori not only to gain altitude and technical experience but it also
serves well as a shopping trip for the big E.
For Everest you will need combinations of 3 boots. A trekking boot for
the walk to base camp. A double plastic boot for
the lower part of the mountain, Camp 1, 2, and 3. It will be your work boot used for multiple trips up and own the
mountain pre- summit bid. The Scarpa Inferno or the Koflach Degre are good
choices and their is also a La Sportiva on the market that fits the bill. The Everest boot will be for
your summit push. Warm feet is essential. Do not scrimp or assume when it comes to keeping your
feet warm. We highly recommend the Everest Boot. It is
still the warmest boot available on the market today.
Description
Semi-rigid
/ shell boot with built-in Gore-Tex gaiter and removable inner slipper in
insulating alveolite. Automatic crampon attachment. Non-compressive fastening
with wide Velcro straps. Closes with a double zip, making it easier to put on.
Protective rubber coating on heels and toes. Microcellular midsole to increase
insulation. Isothermal to - 50 C°. Removable and interchangeable inner slipper
in aluminized alveolite. Fiberglass and Carbon Midsole
Cordura + evazote upper. Alveolite insole. GORE-TEX® 3 layer gaiter. Elasticized collar.
SIZES 5 to 13+
AVERAGE WEIGHT 3000 grms
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BOOTS & GAITERS FOR AMA DABLAM , PUMORI or other peaks.
SCARPA
INFERNO Double
Boot
ORDER-MEC
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Weight:
2.46kg (8M)
Two stiffnesses of plastic are used
to provide rigidity and flexibility where you need it. The soft Pebax
shell will not stiffen up in cold weather, and the inner liner
features closed-cell foam for added warmth.
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CLOTHING, TENTS, BAGS AND
PACKS
Mountain Hardwear offers tried tested and true mountaineering
apparel and gear. Please visit their site to view these items. http://www.mountainhardwear.com
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BODY
You will need a good pair of pants, the bib style is preferred over the pant. I find that with the pant style,
they tend to push down when wearing a pack. The bib style with suspenders
helps prevent this. The MEC
Synergy pant is a good option as well as the Arcteryx
Stinger Big pant. You will also need a good waterproof shell jacket and a
down jacket.
For more information on a good selection of
clothing, sleeping bags and tents, please browse the Mountain Hardwear website:
For Mountain Hardwear click here: Mountain
Hardwear
ALTITUDE
SLEEPING BAG- There
is an assortment of bags that I recommend depending on the climbers
individual
needs ranging from a rating system of -40 to -20c for on mountain bags.
Have a look at the Mountain Hardwear website and go over the specs to
determine your specific needs. For a good warmth and weight and balance
for all high altitude mountains I recommend the following:
The WRAITH SL from
Mountain Hardwear. Temperature rating -20F/-29C, sizes REG/LONG, weight
4lbs 4oz/1.9kg. This bag is built for high altitude, cold weather
mountaineering, where temperatures rarely rise above 0F.
The WRAITH SI Mountain
Hardwear sleeping bag is loaded with features designed specifically to
keep you toasty in the coldest conditions. 800-fill down keeps you cozy
while the Conduit SI laminate keeps you dry and protected.
Wraith SL- ORDER
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CLIMBING
ACCESSORIES
Carefully check the expedition
gear list you have been provided. Here are a few recommendations and
places to look for options.
- CRAMPONS-
You will need a 12
point crampon. The
Petzle
Charlet M10 crampon is a great all round crampon. These
must be sharp and must fit your boot perfectly. You can also consider
the Grivel G-14 or Black Diamond Sabertooth as good choices.
- ICE AXE-
The Petzle
Charlet
Snowwalker axe. A short axe with a pick and light weight is
what is needed for high altitude climbing. Summit day is a consistent
40 degrees so a short axe of 60cm with a leash is ideal.
- CLIMBING HARNESS-
Make sure the buckle is easy for you to thread in cold condition! Gear loops
will be useful for this trip as well as adjustable leg loops. The Petzle
Adjama is nice since it doesn't require rethreading the buckle.
- HELMET-
Also many to choose from The
High
Star Camp is an example of one I would recommend.
- GLOVES-
Men: Mountain
Hardwear's Annapurna
Glove is a premier technical mountaineering 3-in-1 glove: Gore-Tex® XCR®
outer glove with abrasion resistant palm and Kevlar reinforced sidewalls can
be worn with or without liner. Women: Headwall XCR Glove is a good choice.
- MITTS- The Absolute
Zero mitt is our choice in the Mountain Hardwear line.. Extreme
expeditions require extreme 3-in-1 gloves: Conduit ™ for waterproof
protection, removable PrimaLoft® inner mitt for warmth, abrasion resistant
palm and sidewalls.
- BASE
CAMP TENT-
We recommend either the Mountain Hardwear Trango
2 or the Hammerhead
2 tents for your personal base camp tent if you are looking to buy a
new one, otherwise bring what you have.
- CLIMBING
BACK PACK- Medium
size internal frame pack. An example is the Lowe Alpine Attack 60 (60 liter
capacity). Look for a pack which is comfortable to carry, very durable, as
light as is reasonable and one which has a minimum number of extras and
attachments.
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CLIMBING EQUIPMENT AVAILABLE
IN KATHMANDU
Word is out that there is an
abundance of equipment, clothing and footwear available in Nepal. This is true!
An amazing selection of some old some new and plenty of knock offs. If you know
your stuff go for it. You can find plenty of beat up and semi new and brand new down jackets.
New is very reasonable today in Kathmandu. Lots of
smelly good quality sleeping bags and plenty knock offs which are good for base
camp bags but not for on the mountain. They tend to be too heavy.
Technical climbing gear
available in Kathmandu. Yes this is true! Again know your stuff. There is a
large assortment of everything you will need. You will need to be
well informed on spotting cracked and damaged protection devices if you buy
used. Renting from our gear outlet will be a good idea. On our expeditions we include all good quality team hardwear.
Trekking equipment:
Everything you will need and then some is available in one of the many shops in
Kathmandu.. Most of the clothing is
knock offs but it works. Be prepared to discard it after the trip because the
sewing and fabric doesn't hold up that well. But hey- if you don't plan on doing this
again, go for it! You can rent down jackets if
you don't have use for one ever again and sleeping bags good for trekking or
base camp. You can even buy duffel bags to put all your
gear in, water bottles, knives, hiking boots and more, its all there.
If you are joining an organized
trek we "do not" recommend leaving your shopping till Kathmandu due to time
restraints. This is your time to holiday and shopping for some can be a real chore.
It's a good idea to squeeze this effort in at home before you go. There are no
real savings on quality original gear other than the knock off jackets.
Happy shopping- please
don't hesitate to contact me for more assistance if needed.
Tim Rippel - Peak Freak Expeditions Inc.
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