MT. ACONCAGUA EXPEDITION-
6962m
with Peak Freaks
EVEREST
ALTITUDE TRAINING- Aconcagua. This past year successful Everest
summits by various climbers including two Peak Freak members, made a trip to
Aconcagua pre-Everest. This is a non-technical peak offering excellent altitude
prior to an Everest bid. Acclimatization can stay with you up to three
weeks or more making this trip an excellent pre-Everest preparation climb.

- DATE
- Jan. 30 to Feb. 18, 2010 FULL
Jan. 30 to Feb. 18, 2011- Open
- Jan. 3 to Jan. 22, 2010
- Summit
Success on Jan. 16- at 2:30pm. Jan. 3 to Jan. 22, 2011- Open
- COST:
$3780.00US
(based on a minimum of 4 participants maximum 8)
- LOCATION:
Aconcagua is located in Northern Argentina, in the Province of
Mendoza, where the summit is just 12 kilometers from the Chilean border
- ROUTE: EXPEDITION FOR January 3, 2010 and JANUARY 30, 2010 - False Polish Glacier. 2011'-
2 trips same dates.
- PHOTO
GALLERY
- Blog- January
30, 2010' trip
MOUNTAIN INFORMATION
The local Aymara Indians, named the mountain Kon Kawa, or snowy
Mountain. The Chilean Indians, the Araucanos, named the river on the western
side of the Andean range Aconca-Hue, or ït comes for the other side." As
the Inca empire influence reached the central Andes, they called the mountain
Ancocahua, where the Quechau the root anco means white and cahuac means
sentinel. There is considerable evidence that the Incas climbed very high on the
mountain. In 1947, a skelton of guanaco, a wild relative of the llama, was found
along the ridge between the North and South summit. Archaeologists doubt that
this animal would have made it to this elevation o nits own! The most
significant find occurred in 1985 where a mummy, preserved by cold dry air, was
found at 5200m (17,060 ft) along the southwest ridge of Cerro Pyramidal, a sub
peak of Aconcagua. It is thought that there are other undiscovered
archaeological sites on Aconcagua that found, deserve to be left untouched and
accurately reported to the authorities for investigation. In 1883, the German
Paul Gussfeldt was the first European to attempt the might mountain in
"full Scottish conditions, " with poor equipment, and very little
information Gussfeldt didn't make the summit summit, but he made it to the 6500m
mark. Their expedition was notable because they opened the route for future
expeditions. On January, 14th 1897, the Swiss Mathias Zurbriggen was the first
to reach the summit solo!
Available
(Jan.
3) |
Sold
out (Jan. 30) |
ITINERARY
|
Jan 03 |
Jan 30 |
Arrive
Mendoza- transfer to our hotel. This is a lovely little city and
wine capital of Argentina. |
Jan 04 |
Jan 31 |
Final day for
permit issuance and then board the bus after lunch for Penitentes.
Check into the Ayelen Hotel, steak dinner. Get your legs moving
again walking around the ski area. |
Jan 05 |
Feb 01 |
Gentle hike to
Pampa de Lenas, camp |
Jan 06 |
Feb 02 |
Climb to Casa
Pedrias |
Jan 07 |
Feb 03 |
Approach from
Casa de Piedras to Plaza Argentina (4200 mt) |
Jan 08 |
Feb 04 |
Rest and
acclimatization Base Camp |
Jan 09 |
Feb 05 |
Equipment
carrying to Camp 1 (5000m) |
Jan 10 |
Feb 06 |
Ascent to Camp
1 (5000m) |
Jan 11 |
Feb 07 |
Equipment
carrying to camp 2 (5500m) |
Jan 12 |
Feb 08 |
Rest at Camp 1
(5000m) |
Jan 13 |
Feb 09 |
Ascent to Camp
2 (5500m) |
Jan 14 |
Feb 10 |
Equipment
carrying to Camp 3 –high camp (5900m) |
Jan 15 |
Feb 11 |
Ascent to Camp
3 (5900) |
Jan 16 |
Feb 12 |
Summit day
(6962 m) ****** |
Jan 17 |
Feb 13 |
Reserve day
for acclimatization and weather. |
Jan 18 |
Feb 14 |
Reserve day
for acclimatization and weather |
Jan 19 |
Feb 15 |
Plaza
Argentina |
Jan 20 |
Feb 16 |
Pampa de Lenas |
Jan 21 |
Feb 17 |
Coach
transportation back to Mendoza |
Jan 22 |
Feb 18 |
transfer to
the airport or take in other parts of Argentina: Buenos Aires,
Patagonia etc. all within reach. |
About the route
The approach is made through the Valle de Vacas (
Vacas Valley ) and then, from Base Camp Plaza Argentina (4200 m) we climb the
mountain through the route of the Falso Polacos (False Polish). After leaving base camp and
arriving to camp 2, we climb diagonally and towards the left, from the rocky
area (5900 m) at the base of the Polish Glacier. You must cross the bottom, flat
part of the glacier to arrive to the camp up on the glacier of the
Aconcagua . After this, you keep going up to a snow ridge which leads to the summit. The descent is through the same route,
returning to Plaza Argentina .
This is not a route where you will find technical
difficulties but it is a glacier at the top. On summit day we will be on the
glacier wearing crampons and using ice axes.
Daily Program
Day 1: Airport reception and transport to the
hotel
Our expedition begins in Mendoza, Argentina. At
your arrival to the international airport or bus station in the City of
Mendoza transfer to the hotel and hitch up with Tim and Angel to go over your gear
items. This is a very
important step. Mendoza is the last place available, where you can buy or rent
equipment, it is not always easy to find the things you need at the last
minute in this city so please do you best to get properly geared up before
arriving here . After this, there is a group meeting and later we go to one of the
many fine restaurants for dinner. You get the chance to taste the delicious
argentine "asado" (barbecued meat) and wonderful wines from Mendoza.
There are numerous alternatives for those who do not drink wine or eat red
meats. Dinner in Argentina is usually around 9:00 P.M.
We use the well appointed Hotel Aconcagua
for our Mendoza base camp on all our expeditions:
Day 2: Transport from Mendoza to the Hotel in
Penitentes.
After all the permissions and permits to climb
are in place we jump on board our private transportation and begin our drive through
the mountains on the breath taking picturesque road to Villa de Penitentes; at noon we stop in Uspallata, a
beautiful Andean Valley where we have lunch in a typical restaurant. After
another hour of driving through high mountain roads, we arrive to Villa de
Penitentes, where we stay at Hotel Aylen in the mountain. In the afternoon we
weigh all the equipment for the mules to get ready for transportation to the base
camp. Evening dinner and
rest.
Day 3: Approaching from Penitentes to Pampa de
Leñas.
During this day we start the approach from
Penitentes to Pampa de Leñas. After a night in Penitentes, we are transported
to the entrance of Aconcagua Park. We arrive to Punta de Vacas, where the mule
carriers load the equipment on the mules and we walk to the Base Camp, this
takes three days. On this day, we trek from 4 to 5 hours up to the camp Pampa
de Leñas (2950 m). This is where we present our permits to the park rangers,
we meet up with our equipment and assemble our tents. After
refreshment, we will enjoy a hot dinner.
Day 4: Acclimatization trek from Pampa de Leñas
to Casa de Piedras.
In the early morning we prepare our equipment
again to be transported by the mules and we have a large breakfast. On this
day, we advance towards an intermediate camp, passing through the Quebrada de
Vacas, for 6 to 7 hours where you see the Quebrada de Relinchos Stream. This
is where we will be able to see the first sight of the Western Face of the
Aconcagua. This place is named Casa de Piedras (3240 m) and is where we spend
our last approaching night, from Base Camp. Again we assemble the tents and then we have dinner.
Day 5: Approach from Casa de Piedras to Plaza
Argentina (4200 mt)
This is the last day of approaching to Plaza
Argentina (4200 m). We start trekking for 5 to 6 hours, going through the
margins of the Relincho Stream and ascend up the steep slope of the same name,
which takes us to Inferior Plaza Argentina. This is where we will be able to
see the last native vegetation before climbing towards the glaciers, where
Plaza Argentina is placed. At this camp, we meet up with our personal
equipment.
Day 6: Rest and acclimatization Base Camp.
At Plaza de Argentina we rest and use the day
for acclimatization. This is a good opportunity to get to know the Camp, take
a shower and explore the area. One get a medical check-up here and reorganize and review the equipment, prepare the loads, the fuel and
food for transportation for the next day. It is here you start to meet climbers from other parts of the world and
our staff that works at the camps.
Day 7: Equipment carrying to Camp 1 (5000m)
We keep our backpacks as
light as possible to be able to gradually adapt to the altitude. This is a hard day, where we will be walking for 6 hours,
ascending on easy terrain. This is when we start enjoying the real beauty of
high altitude, ascending more and more, obtaining a spectacular view of the
Quebrada de Relinchos and the Horcones Valley.
Day 8: Ascent to Camp 1 (5000 m)
We have breakfast and start the ascent from
Camp 1. After a 5 to 6 hour walk on easy terrain we arrive to Camp 1 (5000m).
We meet with the load that we brought in the day before. We assemble the camp and
then organize the loads for carrying the following day. We rest and have dinner.
Day 9: Equipment carrying to camp 2 (5500m)
We carry food and fuel to camp 2 (5500m).
This exercise helps us keep our backpacks as light as possible to continue with our gradual acclimatization.
We return to Camp 1. Have dinner and rest.
Day 10: Rest at Camp 1 (5000m)
This is our rest day to hydrate ourselves and fuel up. We must prepare
ourselves mentally, for the final stage.
Day 11: Ascent to Camp 2 (5500m)
After breakfast we start the ascent from
Camp 1 to Camp 2 (5500m). We meet with our loads that we brought two days
before and reorganize for the next day. We rest and have dinner.
Day 12: Equipment carrying to Camp 3 (5900m)
We carry food and fuel to camp 3 (5900m).
This is a
hard day, of about 4 hours of walking, where we ascend on easy terrain.
Besides this effort, it is very important to control our body adaptation to
the altitude and listen to your bodies response carefully. We will keep a
close on your from here on out to make sure everyone is adapting as
planned.
We return to Camp 2 and rest. We have dinner.
Day 13: Ascent to Camp 3 (5900)
Early morning, after breakfast and after
disassembling our tents, we start climb for about 4 hrs. The climb is
diagonal and towards the left. The lower part of the glacier is flat
then steeper to Camp 3. We also plan the final strategies for the last day of
ascension to assure success in reaching the summit. We have dinner and rest.
Day 14: Summit day (6962 m)
The day begins at 5:00 am. This is the most
demanding day of our expedition. We continue up the glacier to a ridge of snow
which leads us to the summit at 6962m. This is normally where we would see the first sun rays of the day.
We can find strong winds, even on calm
days. The Southern Wall of the Aconcagua, considered one of the largest
walls of the world. An indescribable sensation takes of total satisfaction
takes over as we reach the summit at 6962 m, where the prize is waiting for
us, a 360° view and the experience of overcoming, that you only finally
understand once you reach it. After sharing these moments of accomplishment
and emotion with our expedition mates, we descend to camp 3, disassemble and
move down to Camp 2 15:
Day 15: Reserve Day 1 for
acclimatization and weather.
Day 16: Reserve Day 2 for
acclimatization and weather or catch up day if late arrivals in Mendoza
occured.
Day 17: Plaza Argentina
Return to Base Camp. Special reception and have
a dinner for celebration
Day 18: Plaza Argentina to Pampa de Leñas
We have breakfast and start the descent from
Plaza Argentina to Pampa de Leñas. After a 7 hrs walk we meet with our
equipment. We assemble the tents and enjoy our last night at
the mountain.
Day 19: Pampa de Leñas - Punta de Vacas -
Mendoza
We have breakfast and then start the descent
from Pampa de Leñas to Punta de Vacas, approximately for 3 hours. Transport to
the hotel in Mendoza in private vehicles. Farewell dinner.
Day 20: Airport
Transport from the hotel to the Airport or bus terminal.
End of services.
TRANSPORT
- Transport by taxi (cost $6US to $9US) to th Hotel
Aconcagua. After clearing customs proceed out the door and taxi's will be
waiting to whisk you away.
- Transport to and from Mendoza-Penitentes in a private
vehicle. From the hotel we take you to Penitentes, 180km, over a mountainous
road where you can enjoy the most spectacular view of the Central Andes.
Overnight at the Aylen Hotel.
- Transport to and from Penitentes to the entrance of
Aconcagua Park to start the trekking.
PERMIT
- We no longer include this amount in the above program
costs. We are advised since the amount changes frequently
it is better that each participant pay upon arrival the rate at that time.
You can estimate to bring with you between $300 to $400US for this.
LODGING
- Hotel Aconcagua in Mendoza is at your expense.
We have secured rates between $75 and $85US per night. You should budget for
2-nights here. One inbound and one outbound.
- We include one (1) night at the Ayelen Hotel in
Penitentes, a 3***, Double or triple, half board, beverages not included.
For the past years, this ski center, Penitentes, has been the parting point
for most expeditions to the Aconcagua. Some expeditions go through Puente
del Inca, but we prefer Penitentes because the lodging is better. In
Penitentes, you can find from hostels to 3*** hotels. Peak Freaks works with
the Ayelen Hotel *** Star, which offers single, double and triple rooms with
private bathrooms. The welcome dinner, breakfast and taxes are included
MEALS
- All meals are included during the approach tot Base Camp and high altitude camps. Complete and balanced diet. Meals are
prepared daily by the cooks at the camps. And then expedition
simplified meals are organized for the higher camps.
COMMUNICATIONS
- There is permanent communication, 24 hours a
day, through VHF, HF radios, Satellite Telephones, between Base Camps,
mountain expeditions, Penitentes and Mendoza. This is for safety and
organization that will lead your expedition to be a successful one.
MULES
- Mules for equipment transportation (30
kg/person) up the Valle de Vacas (Vacas Valley) is included. "Responsibility and
Confidence
service" means taking your equipment on time and in perfect conditions
to and from Base Camp and back to Penitentes. Each person has
the right to transport up to 30 kg. We recommend you take a resistant bag,
even though the gear is protected for transportation.
FOOD
- The kitchen and food tents are completely
equipped with tables, chairs, dishes. Our base camp tents is an exclusively designed
dome, made to provide the highest comfort and
quality services.
MEDICAL
- Our Base Camps have hyperbaric
chambers, oxygen equipment, oximeters and first aid kits for an immediate
response under any situation. You will be seen by a medical examiner at base
camp to determine your state of health for the climb.
TENTS
- Peak Freak provides our own sleeping tents and we
contribute financially to the use of the latrines established at the camps. We provide
our clients with the best mountain tents available. The North Face and
Mountain Hard Wear.
- Our Base Camps have hyperbaric
chambers, oxygen equipment, oximeters and first aid kits for an immediate
response under any situation. You will be seen by a medical examiner at base
camp to determine your state of health for the climb.
EQUIPMENT LIST FOR MEN AND WOMEN:
Climbing Gear
__ Alpine climbing harness Must have adjustable leg loops and fit over all
clothing (Alpine Bod or equivalent harness)
__ 1 locking carabiner Large, pear-shaped carabiner is best, screw gate type
recommended
__ Ice axe w/leash Light weight (i.e. Grivel Air tech or Black Diamond Raven)
under 5’7” use 60cm, 5’7”- 6’2” use 65cm, over 6’2” use 70cm
__ 1 pair plastic expedition boots Make sure that the boot is expedition quality
and has a new or in excellent condition stock liner or alveolite liner. Scarpa
Inferno or similar are recommended.
__ 1 pair insulated super-gaiters Super-gaiters will provide more warmth and are
required. If the toe section of the rubber rand of the gaiter fits loosely you
may want to consider gluing the toe section to the boot.
__ Crampons Must be fit to plastic boots prior to trip, new-matic type
recommended, (i.e. Grivel G12, Black Diamond Contact, or Charlet Moser Super 12
make sure they fit properly with your super-gaiters prior to arrival in
Argentina
__ Adjustable trekking poles
Upper Body
__ 2 cotton t-shirts
__ 1 polypropylene t-shirt
__ 2 long sleeve polypropylene shirt Lightweight, light colored for sunny days.
__ 2 women sports bras Synthetic, no cotton!
__ 2 soft shells Marmot Dri-Clime Wind Shirt, Patagonia Stretch Zephur or
Krushell Jacket (R2 pullover acceptable).
__ Down/synthetic sweater or vest Patagonia Puffball Jacket or Sweater
preferred, R4/ 300 weight fleece jacket acceptable.
__ Hard shell jacket with hood Waterproof and breathable. Gore-Tex or equivalent
is best, roomy enough to fit over multiple layers.
__ 1 expedition down parka with hood. This is probably your most important piece
of clothing! It is important that your jacket is 700+ fill down, baffle
construction (not sewn through seams) and has a thick insulated hood.
Hand wear
We require two systems; one glove system for lower on the mountain and a
mitten overmitt system for the cold temperatures encountered on summit day.
__ 2 pair liner gloves Thin wool or polypropylene
__ 1 pair warm glove Fleece or wool
__ 1 pair expedition shell gloves
__ 1 pair modular expedition shell mitts. OR Pro Mitts If they do not have wrist
straps consider sewing one on so that you can either attach it to your jacket or
cinch the strap to your wrist so that you do not loose your mittens in high
winds.
Head gear
__ Warm hat Wool or synthetic that cover your ears.
__ Balaclava
__ Face mask
__ Shade hat or baseball cap
__ Glacier glasses 100% UV protection with side shields and a hard-sided storage
case (i.e. Julbo or Cebe)*
__ 1 pair extra sunglasses (Also with UV protection in case your primary pair
breaks)
__ 1 ski goggles With UV protection *
Lower Body
__ 4 pair of liner socks. Polypropylene or Capilene
__ 2-3 pair light weight trekking socks
__ 4 pair med-heavy wool socks Check boot fit with liner and wool socks on
__ 1 pair nylon shorts
__ 1 pair nylon pants For trekking and around camp
__ 2 pair lightweight long underwear bottoms
__ 1 pair fleece pants w/ side zipper or farmer johns or “puff-ball pants”
__ 1 pair soft shell pants. (i.e., Patagonia Guide pants or OR Granite Pants.
Schoeller fabrics)
__ 1 pair of hard shell pants. Waterproof/ breathable with full side zips,
Gore-Tex or equivalent is best.
__ 1 pair down booties (optional)
__ 1 pair trail shoes for the hike to base camp and use at camp.
__ 1 pair sandals or tennis shoes for river crossings and in camp.
All clothing should be kept dry using waterproof stuff sacks or large plastic
bags
Sleeping gear
__ 1 down or synthetic sleeping bag Rated to 0° to -20 F
__ Sleeping pad full length closed cell foam (mandatory) and a Therma-Rest
for extra warmth and comfort
Back Packs
__ 1 large capacity internal frame pack Approx. 5000+ cubic inches
__ 1 daypack for the approach hike, possible use on summit day and carry-on
pack. If you plan to use it for your summit pack it must be large enough for
your down jacket, misc. clothes, food and water. The Lowe Alpine Neutrino or
Black Diamond Speed 28 are excellent, lightweight (16 oz.) choices.
__ 2 large (7,500+cu.in.) duffle bags for gear must be durable for use on pack
animals
__ 1 small duffel bag To store in Mendoza
__ Small padlocks For duffel bags
Misc.
__ 1 first-aid kit With ibuprofen and any other doctor recommended
medications
__ Lip balm At least SPF 20, 2 sticks. A string taped to the stick is helpful,
to hang around your neck
__ Sunscreen At least SPF 40
__ Headlamp
__ 3 Water bottles 1 liter wide-mouth Nalgene (1 is a pee bottle).
__ Hydration bladder With drinking tube for lower mountain-(optional).
__ 2 water bottle insulators
__ Plastic mug With snap-on lid, 16 oz. or larger.
__ Bowl and spoon Plastic, small Tupperware works well. Lexan spoons are best.
__ Pocket knife Small Swiss-Army type.
__ Water purification Iodine tablets or Polar-pure crystals.
__ Toiletry kit Be sure to include toilet paper stored in a plastic bag. Women:
Tampons and storage bag for disposal. Midol and other cramp meds. Iron
supplementing pre-expedition is also a very good idea for our female climbers to
help with acclimatization.
__ 3-4 large plastic bags for keeping miscellaneous gear dry
__ Nylon stuff sacks For food and gear storage (OR has a good selection); large
Ziplocs are useful also
__ Bandana
__ Camp towel
__ Ear plugs
__ Hand wipes
__ 1 small stainless steel thermos Optional
__ Favorite snack foods No more than 2 pounds!
__ Paperback books, cards, iPod etc.
__ Camera Optional, 1 light weight point & shoot on the mountain,
__ Fanny pack or wallet For travel documents, money & passport
__ Passport and passport photos- passport valid for not less than 6 months from
your arrival date.
__Airline ticket
BOOKING
Contact trek@peakfreaks.com
$1000 US deposit is due at time of booking. Final
amount is due: 90 days prior to departure.
GUIDES
Angel Armesto and Tim Rippel
work these climbs, together or separately depending on availability.
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