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FIRST STEPS HIMALAYA

            

 

VALLECITOS & ACONCAGUA EXPEDITION

January 30,2016 to February 17, 2016

Polish Traverse

 

 This is fast becoming a popular Aconcagua option, with the highest success rate. We spend the first week acclimatizing in the Silver Range, a part of the large frontal range, between main Andes and the Pre Andes. This pre-acclimatization approach is increasing summit success ten fold and also offers participants a little more of Argentina instead just going straight to the mountain and home again.

 

  • DATE
  •  Jan. 30 to Feb. 17, 2016 &  2017
  • COST:  $4300.00US (based on a minimum of 4 participants maximum 7)
  • LOCATION:  Aconcagua is located in Northern Argentina, in the Province of Mendoza, where the summit is just 12 kilometers from the Chilean border
  • ROUTE: Polish Traverse
  •   We climb a pyramid shaped peak called Vallecitos (5400m/17,440 ft), in order to acclimatize more effectively and explore a beautiful mountain area instead of going up and down multiple times on the same route on Aconcagua carrying loads to acclimatize. This acclimatization side trip is followed by a rest day in Penitentes. This allows us to tackle Aconcagua with renewed energy and motivation and in great physical condition, allowing us to do the climb in only one day. Our climbing route on Aconcagua is the Standard Route. 
  • PHOTO GALLERY
  •  
  • BLOGS

 

 

DATE NIGHT

ITINERARY 

Jan 30 Hotel Arrive Mendoza- transfer to our hotel. This is a lovely little city and wine capital of Argentina. 
Jan 31 Lodge  Final day for permit issuance, last minute supplies shop and board mini van for Vallectios Ski Resort at (3000m-9900 ft.) located in the Silver Range, part of the large frontal range. We will stay in a lodge. Dinner and breakfast included.
Feb 01 Camp Up early, 3- hour hike to Peidra Grande (3500m) “ the big boulder”- Mules will pack our bags, tents and food supplies
Feb 02 Camp 5- hour hike to Salto De Agua campsite- (4100m) “little water fall”
Feb 03 Camp Rest day , to help with acclimatization.
Feb 04 High Camp 2- hour hike to La Hollada- (4900m) “big hole”  
Feb 05 Camping 8- hours to the SUMMIT of Vallecitos Peak- (5400m-17,800 ft). With an early start we climb up the slopes to gain an obvious saddle. From here, we follow an easy yet majestic ridge to the summit. Full day climb with great vistas of the nearby peaks including Aconcagua. Return to La Hollada camp.
Feb 06 Lodge 4-hours, back to Vallecitos Ski Resort
Feb 07 Hotel After a late morning start and breaking down camp, we return to Vallecitos Ski Resort where our mini van will be waiting to take us to Penitentes. spend the night, dinner and breakfast. 
Feb 08 Camp Transfer by van to park gate. Hike to Confluencia (3300m) camp, mules carry equipment, bags and food.
Feb 09 Camp Hike to Plaza De Mulas 4370m – 8-hours- supported by mules.
Feb 10 Camp Plaza De Mulas- 4370m- acclimatization layover.
Feb 11 Camp Cambio Pendigente- 5100m 5-hours or Nido De Condores 5530m 6.5 hours
Feb 12 Camp Chorela- 6000m- 3 to 4 hours.
Feb 13 Camp SUMMIT DAY – 6962m- 15- hours round trip, camp at Chorela.
Feb 14 Camp Plaza De Mulas
Feb 15 Hotel Pente del Inca (trail head) 8- hours plus 3 hour drive to Mendoza.
Feb 16 Contingency Day
Feb 17 Contingency Day
Feb 18 transfer to the airport or take in other parts of Argentina: Buenos Aires, Patagonia etc. all within reach.

EVEREST ALTITUDE TRAINING- This past year successful Everest summits by various climbers including two Peak Freak members, made a trip to Aconcagua pre-Everest. This is a non-technical peak offering excellent altitude prior to an Everest bid.  Acclimatization can stay with you up to three weeks or more making this trip an excellent pre-Everest preparation climb. We book up fast so if you miss this one you can also explore the idea of joining our Pumori Everest Training climb in the Himalayas: Everest Training Climb -Nepal

Day 1- Jan. 30: 

Our expedition begins in Mendoza, Argentina. Upon your arrival to the international airport or bus station in the City of Mendoza transfer to the hotel to hitch up with Tim or Angel to go over your gear items.  This is a very important step. Mendoza is the last place available, where you can buy or rent equipment, it is not always easy to find the things you need at the last minute in this city so please do your best to get properly geared up before arriving here. After this, there is a group meeting and later we will go out to one of the many fine restaurants for dinner. You get the chance to taste the delicious argentine "asado" (barbecued meat) and wonderful wines from Mendoza. There are numerous alternatives for those who do not drink wine or eat red meats. Dinner in Argentina is usually around 9:00 P.M.

We use the well appointed Hotel Aconcagua for our Mendoza base camp on our expeditions:  

Rooms BBQ Lobby

Pool

  AIRPORT ARRIVAL

  • Transport by taxi (cost $6US to $9US) to th Hotel Aconcagua. After clearing customs proceed out the door and taxi's will be waiting to whisk you away.
  • Transport to and from Mendoza-Penitentes in a private vehicle. From the hotel we take you to Penitentes, 180km, over a mountainous road where you can enjoy the most spectacular view of the Central Andes. Overnight at the Aylen Hotel.
  • Transport to and from Penitentes to the entrance of Aconcagua Park to start the trekking.

PERMIT

  • We no longer include this amount in the above program costs.  We are advised since the amount changes frequently so it is better that each participant pay upon arrival the rate at that time. You can estimate to bring with you between $300 to $400US for this.

LODGING

  • Hotel Aconcagua in Mendoza is at your expense. We have secured rates between $75 and $85US per night. You should budget for 2-nights here. One inbound and one outbound but adding an extra one inbound is a good idea should bags go astray. 
  • We include one (1) night at the Aylen Hotel in Penitentes, a 3***, Double or triple, half board, beverages not included. For the past years, this ski center, Penitentes, has been the starting point for most expeditions to the Aconcagua. Some expeditions go through Puente del Inca, but we prefer Penitentes because the lodging is better. In Penitentes, you can find from hostels to 3*** hotels. Peak Freaks works with the  Aylen Hotel *** Star, which offers single, double and triple rooms with private bathrooms. The welcome dinner, breakfast and taxes are included.
  • We include (2) nights at a basic lodge at the Vallecitos Ski Resort. Vallecitos

MEALS

  • All meals are included during the approach tot Base Camp and high altitude camps. Complete and balanced diet. Meals are prepared daily by the cooks at the camps. And then expedition simplified meals are organized for the higher camps.

COMMUNICATIONS

  • There is permanent communication, 24 hours a day, through VHF, HF radios, Satellite Telephones, between Base Camps, mountain expeditions, Penitentes and Mendoza. This is for safety and organization that will lead your expedition to be a successful one.

MULES

  • Mules for equipment transportation (30 kg/person) up the Valle de Vacas (Vacas Valley) is included. "Responsibility and Confidence service" means taking your equipment on time and in perfect conditions to and from Base Camp and back to Penitentes.   Each person has the right to transport up to 30 kg. We recommend you take a resistant bag, even though the gear is protected for transportation.

PORTERS

  • We now employ two porters to 7 clients to help with loads on Aconcagua. 

FOOD 

  • The kitchen and food tents are completely equipped with tables, chairs, dishes. Our base camp tents is an exclusively designed dome,  made to provide the highest comfort and quality services. 

MEDICAL

  • Our Base Camps have hyperbaric chambers, oxygen equipment, oximeters and first aid kits for an immediate response under any situation. You will be seen by a medical examiner at base camp to determine your state of health for the climb.

TENTS

  • Peak Freak provides our own sleeping tents and we contribute financially to the use of the latrines established at the camps. We provide our clients with the best mountain tents available. 
  • Our Aconcagua base camp has a hyperbaric chamber, oxygen equipment, oximeters and first aid kits for an immediate response under any situation. You will be seen by a medical examiner at base camp to determine your state of health for the climb.

EQUIPMENT LIST FOR MEN AND WOMEN:

Climbing Gear


__ Ice axe w/leash Light weight (i.e. Grivel Air tech or Black Diamond Raven) under 5’7” use 60cm, 5’7”- 6’2” use 65cm, over 6’2” use 70cm
__ 1 pair plastic expedition boots Make sure that the boot is expedition quality and has a new or in excellent condition stock liner or alveolite liner. Scarpa Inferno or similar are recommended.
__ 1 pair insulated super-gaiters Super-gaiters will provide more warmth and are required. If the toe section of the rubber rand of the gaiter fits loosely you may want to consider gluing the toe section to the boot.
__ Crampons Must be fit to plastic boots prior to trip, new-matic type recommended, (i.e. Grivel G12, Black Diamond Contact, or Charlet Moser Super 12 make sure they fit properly with your super-gaiters prior to arrival in Argentina
__ Adjustable trekking poles

Upper Body
__ 2 cotton t-shirts
__ 1 polypropylene t-shirt
__ 2 long sleeve polypropylene shirt Lightweight, light coloured for sunny days.
__ 2 women sports bras Synthetic, no cotton!
__ 2 soft shells Marmot Dri-Clime Wind Shirt, Patagonia Stretch Zephur or Krushell Jacket (R2 pullover acceptable).
__ Down/synthetic sweater or vest Patagonia Puffball Jacket or Sweater preferred, R4/ 300 weight fleece jacket acceptable.
__ Hard shell jacket with hood Waterproof and breathable. Gore-Tex or equivalent is best, roomy enough to fit over multiple layers.
__ 1 expedition down parka with hood. This is probably your most important piece of clothing! It is important that your jacket is 700+ fill down, baffle construction (not sewn through seams) and has a thick insulated hood.

Hand wear
We require two systems; one glove system for lower on the mountain and a mitten over-mitt system for the cold temperatures encountered on summit day.
__ 2 pair liner gloves Thin wool or polypropylene
__ 1 pair warm glove Fleece or wool
__ 1 pair expedition shell gloves
__ 1 pair modular expedition shell mitts. OR Pro Mitts If they do not have wrist straps consider sewing one on so that you can either attach it to your jacket or cinch the strap to your wrist so that you do not loose your mittens in high winds.

Head gear
__ Warm hat Wool or synthetic that cover your ears.
__ Balaclava
__ Face mask
__ Shade hat or baseball cap
__ Glacier glasses 100% UV protection with side shields and a hard-sided storage case (i.e. Julbo or Cebe)*
__ 1 pair extra sunglasses (Also with UV protection in case your primary pair breaks)
__ 1 ski goggles With UV protection *

Lower Body
__ 3 pair liner socks
__ 3 pair light weight trekking socks
__ 3 pair med-heavy wool socks Check boot fit with liner and wool socks on
__ 1 pair nylon shorts
__ 1 pair nylon pants For trekking and around camp
__ 2 pair lightweight long underwear bottoms
__ 1 pair fleece pants w/ side zipper or farmer johns or “puff-ball pants”
__ 1 pair soft shell pants. (i.e., Patagonia Guide pants or OR Granite Pants. Schoeller fabrics)
__ 1 pair of hard shell pants. Waterproof/ breathable with full side zips, Gore-Tex or equivalent is best.
__ 1 pair down booties (optional)
__ 1 pair trail shoes for the hike to base camp and use at camp.
__ 1 pair sandals or tennis shoes for river crossings and in camp.

All clothing should be kept dry using waterproof stuff sacks or large plastic bags


Sleeping gear
__ 1 down or synthetic sleeping bag Rated to at least -10F
__ Sleeping pad full length closed cell foam (mandatory) and a Therma-Rest for extra warmth and comfort

Back Packs
__ 1 large capacity internal frame pack Approx. 5000+ cubic inches
__ 1 daypack for the approach hike, possible use on summit day and carry-on pack. If you plan to use it for your summit pack it must be large enough for your down jacket, misc. clothes, food and water. The Lowe Alpine Neutrino or Black Diamond Speed 28 are excellent, lightweight (16 oz.) choices.
__ 2 large (7,500+cu.in.) duffle bags for gear must be durable for use on pack animals
__ 1 small duffel bag To store in Mendoza
__ Small padlocks For duffel bags

Misc.
__ 1 first-aid kit With ibuprofen and any other doctor recommended medications including a full dose of Ciproflaxin and some Diamox.
__ Lip balm At least SPF 20, 2 sticks. A string taped to the stick is helpful, to hang around your neck
__ Sunscreen At least SPF 40
__ Headlamp 
__ 3 Water bottles 1 liter wide-mouth Nalgene (1 is a pee bottle).
__ Hydration bladder With drinking tube for lower mountain-(optional).
__ 2 water bottle insulators
__ Plastic mug With snap-on lid, 16 oz. or larger.
__ Bowl and spoon Plastic, small Tupperware works well. Lexan spoons are best.
__ Pocket knife Small Swiss-Army type.
__ Water purification Iodine tablets or Polar-pure crystals.
__ Toiletry kit Be sure to include toilet paper stored in a plastic bag. Women: Tampons and storage bag for disposal. Midol and other cramp meds. Iron supplementing pre-expedition is also a very good idea for our female climbers to help with acclimatization.
__ 3-4 large plastic bags for keeping miscellaneous gear dry
__ Nylon stuff sacks For food and gear storage (OR has a good selection); large Ziplocs are useful also
__ Bandana
__ Camp towel
__ Ear plugs
__ Hand wipes
__ 1 small stainless steel thermos Optional
__ Favorite snack foods No more than 2 pounds!
__ Paperback books, cards, iPod etc.
__  Camera Optional, 1 light weight point & shoot on the mountain,
__ Fanny pack or wallet For travel documents, money & passport
__ Passport and passport photos- passport valid for not less than 6 months from your arrival date.
__Airline ticket

BOOKING

Contact trek@peakfreaks.com

$1000 US deposit is due at time of booking. Final amount is due: 90 days prior to departure.

GUIDE - Gaspar Navarrete Gangotena

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

HIMALAYAN HIGH ALTITUDE SPECIALISTS since 1983

 

 

Email:   peakfreaks@me.com  -  Nelson, B.C. Canada

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